Mechanical keyboards have never been cheaper. It’s easier now than ever to go on to Amazon.com or some other drop shipping seller, buy a mechanical keyboard for under $100 made by… someone, and have it in just a few days to try it out. In many ways, that has lowered the barrier of entry into the world of mechanical keyboards. It’s also a bit of a problem for the hobby. If you try out a cheap mechanical keyboard and don’t like it, is it because mechanical keyboards aren’t for you, or because the cheap keyboard you bought on Amazon isn’t very good?
What you really need is an entry-level mechanical keyboard that is easy to assemble, inexpensive, and feels like a high-end build out of the box. Something that has plenty of customization options and parts available so you have a platform to learn what you really like, all for less than buying a few “cheap” mechanical keyboards to find your preferred typing experience.
That’s where KBDFans’ Tofu60 2.0 comes in. It’s a block of aluminum with a keyboard inside, and plenty of customization options included in the box with hundreds of combinations. Figuring out the best beginner-friendly mechanical keyboard just got much easier… if you’re okay with the fact that it’s a 60% keyboard.
In This Article:
The Layout
We’ll have to start with this. The Tofu60 2.0 is, obviously, a 60% keyboard. Much of what I’ll say here would apply, at least in part, to the Tofu65, their 65% keyboard with arrow keys as well as four additional keys on the side of the board (usually page up/down, home, etc). I used to be the kind of person who could never use a keyboard that didn’t have arrow keys. However, after playing with the HHKB layout long enough, it hasn’t been an issue. When I need a more standard arrow key layout, I can use a function key press + WASD, and usually can get away with using the standard and weird HHKB arrow keys, although these still are less useful. I still insist it’s a terrible placement for arrow keys.
I like the additional desk space I get with a 60% layout. Plus, I have a number pad and macro pad separate from my keyboard to the left, with a trackball on the right. My desk space is compact, but has everything I need. I love the HHKB and 60% layout, but it’s not for everyone. If you’re someone who needs arrow keys, and doesn’t want to give ditching them a shot, you can check out either the Tofu65 or Tofu FA, similar boards with arrow keys.
To everyone else, yeah, it’s got blocked out control keys on the top aluminum casing for that real HHBK feel. This makes it easy to find the function key, and still keeps all keys within reach. I use the control key far more than caps lock anyway. The HHKB layout is wonderful, but I understand that not everyone wants to give it a try or, has given it an honest chance, and just didn’t like it. There are options for the Tofu60 though, from a full 60% layout to even Win-keyless models, for those who like a blocked-out Windows key (alt on Macs), though I wouldn’t recommend it for anyone on a Mac. The alt key is just too useful in multiple keyboard shortcuts, but if it’s your thing, and you like preventing accidental Windows key presses, it might be a great layout for you.
Build Experience
Keyboard builds sort of assume you can figure out where everything goes. For the most part, this is a safe assumption. I love the fact that the top section of this keyboard goes over the entire sides, securing on the bottom with just some screws. The only potentially tricky part of the build for beginners might be figuring out what kind of mounting style you want. You can top mount it, screwing the board directly to the top of the frame, which I don’t recommend, as it’s a bit harsh, but some people really like the sound. Other methods include “silicone bowl” gaskets, which are little silicone cups that spring up and down with various hardness, and “silicone socks,” which go over legs on the plate. The bowls ended up being my favorite, giving springiness and a cushioned feel, but you’ll be able to mix and match as much as you want!
This build does feature one of my least-liked portion of builds, a daughterboard. This is basically the part that connects to a USB-C cable, and then connects that to the keyboard PCB internally. Often the cables on these are too short to comfortably work. I once forgot how short a cable was and snapped the connector opening a case up. I couldn’t even solder it back on because it was too close together for my tools to heat up without damaging the nearby chip. That and I’m barely a beginner with a soldering iron. However, that cable is a bit longer with this build, making it less of a headache than this process typically is.
The kit includes a plate, foam for between the plate and PCB (PCB foam), a PCB, and even switch foam for between the PCB foam and PCB, and case foam for under the PCB. You can find the order you’d put each of these in on the website, but it generally makes sense. You can easily make a thocky sound with this keyboard and the right switches right out of the box. Installing all the parts and swapping them out is surprisingly easy. As far as builds are concerned, it has all the parts of a complicated build, but it isn’t very difficult to assemble. This felt intentionally beginner-friendly.
Options
I love a keyboard that is versatile. My apartment is too small for all my ADHD-fueled collections. Electronics, books, notebooks, skateboards, Lego, guitars, hand-made goods, gadgets, half-finished projects, materials, cables, seriously, my apartment is stuffed. Having a single keyboard that can function as many keyboards through quick customizations is a fantastic thing. With just a few screws, I can pop this open, firm it up, soften it, add or remove foams, swap out the switches, and more. Sure, that’s about 30 minutes of work, but it’s relatively quick, especially compared to some setups that simply do not have any of these options. Many of my boards are stuck in top mount, despite my favorite being gasket mount now!
For options you get a variety of colors, a full 60%, Win key-less top case, or HHKB top case, plates that work with all layouts, flex cut and non-flex cut PCBs, polycarbonate, aluminum, carbon fiber, and FR4 plates (some only in ANSI, some in ISO). Then, you get a variety of silicon bowls you can use for mounting with different tensions, flexibility, and springiness, as well as the silicone socks, which can firm up the feel while still providing a small amount of cushioning and sound dispersal.
This is one versatile keyboard, which makes it fantastic for learning about mechanical keyboards and this hobby. You’ll be able to experiment and find your perfect setup with this kit.
Finished Product
I cannot get over the value of this board. Let’s go over what I would suggest for a great first build, including keycaps, shall we?
- Full 60% (WK) case ($58)
- 1.2 mm flex cut hot-swap PCB (+$50)
- Aluminum plate (+$19)
- PBTFans WOB (white on black) keycaps (+$75, minus a discount)
You’re looking at a build that costs $172 with the keycaps, and just $108 for a build without keycaps. You’re mostly paying for the keycaps, and you can get those for less if you are willing to go for lower quality keycaps from another retailer, like Amazon, for your first build. You can easily find keycaps under $20, some even as low as $10.
I cannot begin to express how incredible this keyboard is for $108 + keycaps. This keyboard build easily feels like it’s worth $300. The solid aluminum, the brass weight, it all screams high-end. And yet you can get a kit, minus keycaps, for $108, and add the keycaps starting at as little as $10. A professional-feeling mechanical keyboard for under $130 is remarkable.
This may very well be one of the best values in mechanical keyboards. It is astounding how polished and beautiful this is on a desk for a price that normally is reserved for cheap Amazon keyboards made of plastic or thin aluminum. It’s pushing the boundaries of just how inexpensive a good keyboard can be.
You won’t find RGB here, although I only mention that because I know some people still like it. However, I’ve mostly moved past it, and it seems the industry largely has too. Now I’d rather something that looks more understated. The gamer aesthetic is dead.
Issues
It’s not without issues though. I’ve found two issues with this keyboard that show off the problems with this build. First, the PCB. It’s a 1.2mm PCB board with cuts through it to make it even more flexible. This is about as flexible of a PCB as you can get. However, that comes with issues. Pair it with a flexible plate, like polycarbonate, as I did, and the plate can actually flex enough to send multiple key presses for a single key. If I press the function key, below the enter key, hard enough, it can actually trigger the back space key. For this, I’d recommend an FR4 or harder material. I haven’t tested these harder materials, but it’s clear that this PCB is just too thin and too flexible to pair well with a soft plate.
I also noticed that it occasionally has issues when connected through a hub to my Mac. I’ll come back to the keyboard after it’s been asleep for a while to find that the keyboard has turned off. I have to unplug it and plug it back in to get it working again. It’s rare, but it’s often enough that I’ve seen it as a recurring problem in the months I’ve been testing it off and on.
Finally, I want to mention something that’s not necessarily an issue, but something I don’t like as much with this keyboard, and it’s a matter of personal preference. The typing angle is at a relatively high 7º. Typical typing angles come between 4º and, well, 7º. You might see something as high as 9º, or as low as 0º, but it’s less common in boards like this. 5-6º seems to be the best spot for most typists, but there’s not really any science or consensus to back that up. Some people may prefer the 7º tilt of this keyboard. I, personally, think it could be a little lower. Not really an “issue,” but something I would personally like to change about this board.
These issues aren’t dealbreakers. You have to push quite hard to trigger multiple key presses, even with my soft plate and silicone bowls setup, and resetting the keyboard isn’t tricky either, with the UCB-C port right at the back. However, they’re little annoyances that help explain that costs may have been cut in testing, rather than materials.
Overall
I went on a bit of an insomnia and ADHD-fueled keyboard buying spree for a few months there, and I’m just starting to put my notes together for reviews finally. But I knew this had to be one of the earlier reviews. It’s just such a fantastic buy. It feels high-end, but costs as little as $108. That’s cheap enough that you could buy yourself a nice keyboard instead of splurging on takeout for a few weeks. It’s just barely entering that, “give myself a little treat” territory.
The best deals are those where the upfront cost is low, but the lasting value is high. This keyboard will be in my rotation for many years to come, and I’m happy to have it. It’s gorgeous, an easy build with many options and customizations, and it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg like most keyboards that are of this quality. It’s not perfect, but it might just be the best beginner mechanical keyboard you can buy. You can find it in limited quantities on KBDfans.com, though expect this popular board to come back in stock eventually.